Sam Hober September 2023 Newsletter - Ancient Madder is a sartorial myth...

Ancient madder ties are a classic look, but commercial silk currently does not use real madder, which is made from the root of the rubia tintoruim plant. This is the same root that was used by the British to dye their Redcoat's uniforms, and dating back to 1324 B.C. cloth dyed with madder has been found in Pharaoh Tutankhamun's tomb - note I'm not sure if the Egyptians used the fabric to make ties...

Alizarin is the main coloring agent of madder and produces a wide range of beautiful reds as well as other colors such as yellow and purple. In 1868 a synthetic alizarin was created by the German chemists Graeme and Liebermann. This spelled the end of almost all commercial cultivation of madder. OK, strike one for ancient madder ties.

Next, ancient madder ties need a special technique of processing silk that uses lime to create a distinctive texture. This process was outlawed many years ago as it polluted local water. Strike two.

Today, modern madder ties use a combination of heat and pressure for the madder finish. This was not part of the ancient madder style - strike three and out...

If you visit a craft fair you can still find small scale artisans who grow madder root and use it to beautifully hand dye fabrics, typically scarves. But you won't find real ancient madder ties for sale in stores. Madder ties use classic paisley designs and geometric patterns with dark reds, greens, blues and other colors. Adamley in Macclesfield, England is the finest printer of madder designs in the world and using a heavy twill weave they print our Macclesfield modern madder silks.

The Thai Post office is part of our logistics team and it is a pleasure working with them. They work 7 days a week and pick up from our workshop. They are very friendly and work hard to help us. Below are the two gentlemen who pickup your registered and express mail orders from our workshop in the countryside in the north of Thailand just outside of Chiangmai.